Sockets and lighting
More sockets where the furniture actually is, and lights or fans replaced.
Sockets and small additionsHythe & the Waterside
Electrical work in Hythe, Dibden Purlieu and Holbury — repairs, sockets and lighting, fuse boards and inspections.
Services
More sockets where the furniture actually is, and lights or fans replaced.
Sockets and small additionsA socket that has gone dead, or a breaker that will not stay on.
When something stops workingWhether the board can take another circuit, and what it needs if it cannot.
Board upgradesWhat the existing circuits are really like before anything is added to them.
What an inspection tells youThe work here is the ordinary run of domestic jobs. Fault finding when a breaker will not stay in or a room has gone dead. Sockets, switches, lights and extractor fans replaced or added. Old fuse boxes changed for a modern consumer unit with RCD protection. Electrical installation condition reports for owners, buyers and landlords, and the repairs a report asks for. Kitchen, shower and cooker circuits, outside power, and rewiring in stages where a house needs more than a patch.
Peter does the work himself: a look at the property, a clear price before anything starts, tidy working, and the certificate for anything notifiable. There is no charge for the quote.
Hythe is just across Southampton Water from the city, but a van cannot take the ferry, so I come round by road through Totton and down the Waterside like everybody else. I cover Hythe itself, and Dibden, Dibden Purlieu and Holbury with it.
A common local job: much of the housing around Hythe and Dibden Purlieu went up in the 1960s and 70s, when a living room might be built with two sockets, so rooms now run on extension leads plugged into extension leads. Whether a new socket can come off the circuit already in the room depends on what that circuit feeds and its condition, which is why I test before adding.
Two questions come up a lot. The first is an EV charge point. It runs on its own circuit, so it depends on the spare capacity in your board and what the incoming supply can carry with a car charging. The second is power somewhere other than the house: a garage, a workshop, a garden office. That normally means a protected circuit sized for the distance, and sometimes a small board out there rather than a lead trailing across the garden.
Extensions and loft conversions are the other planned work. They’re best wired before the walls are closed up, with the sockets and lighting agreed before the rest of the job moves on, which saves paying for the same work twice. It’s also the natural point to ask whether the consumer unit can carry what’s being added.
Plenty of people ring without knowing whether they need a repair, an upgrade, or nothing at all. That’s what I’m here for. Tell me what’s happening and I’ll explain it, including when the honest answer is to leave it alone. 15 years of this makes that call quick. Let’s have a chat.
Questions
One lead for a lamp and a charger is fine. Leads plugged into leads, or anything that heats up — a heater, a kettle, a dryer — on an adaptor is the pattern that causes trouble. If a room needs that many plugs, it needs more sockets.
Often. In a hollow wall the cable can usually be fed through behind the plasterboard. In a solid wall the choice is between chasing and replastering, or neat surface trunking, and I will tell you which your walls allow before you decide.
Tell me which rooms and what is plugged in, and I will come back to you.