Lighting
LED conversions, new downlights and dimmers that suit the lamps behind them.
Lighting workBishopstoke
Electrical work in Bishopstoke — repairs and faults, sockets and lighting, fuse boards, inspections and new circuits.
Services
LED conversions, new downlights and dimmers that suit the lamps behind them.
Lighting workLights that flicker, buzz or keep blowing lamps.
Finding the reasonA board that trips when the lights are switched, and whether it is due a change.
Consumer unit workA proper look at a post-war installation before bigger changes.
Booking an inspectionBishopstoke sits on the other side of the River Itchen from Eastleigh, where I am based, so it is about as local as my work gets, and every part of it is covered. Most of it is everyday work. Tracing why a breaker trips, or why a socket or lighting circuit has gone dead. Replacement switches, fittings and extractor fans. Consumer unit changes, and inspections and testing for owners, buyers and landlords. Extra circuits for kitchens, showers and car chargers, and rewiring where an older house needs it.
Much of the housing is post-war family houses, altered here and there over the years. Whatever yours is, the pattern is the same: a look, a price before work starts, and a certificate when it is finished. Quotes are free.
One of the most common requests here, and less obvious than it looks. Mains halogen spotlights usually take an LED lamp straight in. Low-voltage ones, with a transformer hidden in the ceiling, often do not — the result is flicker, buzzing or early failure, and the answer is a proper driver or new fittings. Old dimmers rarely dim LEDs smoothly either. Downlights need two more checks: fire-rated fittings where the ceiling has to hold back fire, and fittings rated to be covered if loft insulation will sit over them.
Plenty of jobs here are outside the house: a weatherproof socket, garden or driveway lighting, a supply out to a shed, garage or garden office. Those want proper outdoor fittings and a circuit chosen for the distance and the load, not an extension lead through a window.
Indoors, extensions and loft conversions are best wired before the walls go back, with the sockets and switches agreed first and the board checked for room. Planning it early is usually cheaper than putting it right afterwards. If a charge point is likely later, mention it then. It’s far easier to allow for it once than to redo the board twice.
You don’t have to know what the job needs before you ring. Describe it and I’ll tell you whether it’s a repair, an upgrade or something that can happily wait, and what each would cost. After 15 years that’s usually a quick conversation. Being just across the river, coming out to look costs you nothing. Let’s have a chat.
Coverage
Questions
Very often. Dimmers made for halogen loads struggle with the small load LEDs draw. A dimmer rated for LEDs usually cures it, though a transformer in the ceiling can also be the cause.
If there is a room above, the ceiling is part of what slows a fire, so yes, fire-rated fittings are the right choice. Under a loft with no room above, it depends more on the insulation around them.
Tell me which rooms and what lights are fitted, and I will come back to you.